Terrible.
If they germinated...and then died...it may be your technique at fault.
How did you sprout them? Did the sprouts have nice, soft 24-hour fluorescent light? Were the sprouts on a warm surface, like a blanket (or, better, a seedling heating mat), rather than the floor? Did you sprout them in cloth before transplanting (something that, no matter how many books you read advocating it, I absolutely oppose)? And as stupid as it sounds...were they moist throughout?
Sorry to hear about your loss.
seeds in u.s.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
It's so strange, I feel like I just started growing. I have been growing and sprouting for 3 to 4 years. I was so amazed at the rate of germination, one day in paper towel, tap water, heat pad.courtjester wrote:Terrible.
If they germinated...and then died...it may be your technique at fault.
How did you sprout them? Did the sprouts have nice, soft 24-hour fluorescent light? Were the sprouts on a warm surface, like a blanket (or, better, a seedling heating mat), rather than the floor? Did you sprout them in cloth before transplanting (something that, no matter how many books you read advocating it, I absolutely oppose)? And as stupid as it sounds...were they moist throughout?
Sorry to hear about your loss.
Then in plugs(oasis), dirt, peat plugs and in a dome.No heat 6ft florescent, slight circulation temps. in th high 60"s night to 78 ish at top day time temp.
Could maybe to moist? Please for give the response time, I am still trying to figure this damn site out. If you have the time I would like to tell you exactly how I grow! With mediocre results.
Thanks have a great day and God Bless You and Yours
68camaro
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
Too moist certainly could do it. Can kill any plant. You want them always moist, but not swimming. A soaking watering about every three or four days usually covers it. Never use a dome for seedlings in soil. They need air flow more than clones do. Must have drainage in all stages, too, so your containers actually do matter.
Forget the sprout-into-towels bit. Its benefits are overblown and unnecessary, if you're growing in soil. I sprout directly into soil, in those little six-pack plastic tomato container things (72 to a flat), drop the seed 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep, into pre-moistened soil. Place on a seedling heating mat (helps, but not necessary...old rag towels work just as well, just need some insulation for the trays to rest upon), under flourescents. I consistently get 85 percent-plus poppers. Germination occurs in days 3-10. Two weeks under flourescent, and they're ready for transplant into six-by-six-inch pots under HID lighting. About 40-50 days after seed drop, they're ready to flip ... then sex ... then transplant desireds into bigger containers for the rest of flowering ... and so on.
Another tip: For a seedling medium, go to a grow store and get yourself a nice bag of a good, all-organic potting soil. It'll cost you $20 or so, for a 2-cubic-foot bag, but it'll last you easily a year or two, and what's $20 compared to the heartache you just suffered? I use a product called "Black Gold," which includes a mix of, among other things, Canadian Spagnum peat moss, humus, compost, perlite, pumice, earthworm castings -- all you have to do is fill the container, add water, and add your seed of choice. There are other brands similar to it.
Forget the sprout-into-towels bit. Its benefits are overblown and unnecessary, if you're growing in soil. I sprout directly into soil, in those little six-pack plastic tomato container things (72 to a flat), drop the seed 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep, into pre-moistened soil. Place on a seedling heating mat (helps, but not necessary...old rag towels work just as well, just need some insulation for the trays to rest upon), under flourescents. I consistently get 85 percent-plus poppers. Germination occurs in days 3-10. Two weeks under flourescent, and they're ready for transplant into six-by-six-inch pots under HID lighting. About 40-50 days after seed drop, they're ready to flip ... then sex ... then transplant desireds into bigger containers for the rest of flowering ... and so on.
Another tip: For a seedling medium, go to a grow store and get yourself a nice bag of a good, all-organic potting soil. It'll cost you $20 or so, for a 2-cubic-foot bag, but it'll last you easily a year or two, and what's $20 compared to the heartache you just suffered? I use a product called "Black Gold," which includes a mix of, among other things, Canadian Spagnum peat moss, humus, compost, perlite, pumice, earthworm castings -- all you have to do is fill the container, add water, and add your seed of choice. There are other brands similar to it.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
This is so
I am amazed at how many different ways I have been told, for instance the dome.
How big are your buckets for the flowering stage and do you keep the 6 inch pots all through flowering. I was told and read that transplanting is good for the plants as long as it is done correctly, 6 inch to 8 inch to 12 inch. All this in the veg state. This is good or bad information? I have tried the soil for popping the seeds, I see three in 5 days! I have other seedlings of some crap weed, just trying to get a little better at it. The seedlings are about 2 weeks old and look terrible, there is still green at the very top but everything else is dead on the plant. It,s OK I just want to be able to grow a seed and these are not any good for me!
The three that have come up look really green, not usually what I see, is this good? How often do you water seeds that haven't popped?
What is the first time to give nutrients? I grow in hydro and soil, but not that great at either!! I'm trying to figure out witch is better for me. I like hydro less work it seems, dirt is an every day thing.
Sorry for all the questions, You are the first person that said they will help, that actually did. I haven't even had a speed pill today. What I mean is I have some kinda problem with energy and everyday I have to take the Ridilen, but not so far today. I feel like a kid in school that just hit the outside doors, headed to the play ground. This I owe to you, Thanks again,
Gary
How big are your buckets for the flowering stage and do you keep the 6 inch pots all through flowering. I was told and read that transplanting is good for the plants as long as it is done correctly, 6 inch to 8 inch to 12 inch. All this in the veg state. This is good or bad information? I have tried the soil for popping the seeds, I see three in 5 days! I have other seedlings of some crap weed, just trying to get a little better at it. The seedlings are about 2 weeks old and look terrible, there is still green at the very top but everything else is dead on the plant. It,s OK I just want to be able to grow a seed and these are not any good for me!
The three that have come up look really green, not usually what I see, is this good? How often do you water seeds that haven't popped?
What is the first time to give nutrients? I grow in hydro and soil, but not that great at either!! I'm trying to figure out witch is better for me. I like hydro less work it seems, dirt is an every day thing.
Sorry for all the questions, You are the first person that said they will help, that actually did. I haven't even had a speed pill today. What I mean is I have some kinda problem with energy and everyday I have to take the Ridilen, but not so far today. I feel like a kid in school that just hit the outside doors, headed to the play ground. This I owe to you, Thanks again,
Gary
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
Domes have their applications, just not for seedlings in soil.
I don't have any hydro tips for you, though others will.
I don't exactly grow in buckets. I have a box made specially for the purpose. A bit more than a square meter, I suppose, on small wheels for portability, like those on the bottom of an office chair. The box is about 18 inches deep. A layer of plastic covers the interior. On each corner, I have a piece of plumbing pipe rigged up to run from above the top of the box, to within about an inch of the bottom. How I fastened all these items to the box was high-tech indeed: much duct tape.
I drop a layer of hydrocoil, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom of the box. Above that, a mesh wire, cut to fit exactly the size of the inside of the box, and around the plumbing pipe, which is usable forever. Above that, a layer of landscaping cloth, again cut to exactly the same size, which you change every use.
Above that, I put the dirt and 14-17 babies.
So again, in order, from the top of the box down:
Plants
Dirt
Landscaping cloth
Mesh Wire
Hydrocoils.
The design of the box serves multiple purposes. The wire keeps the landscaping cloth steady and in place, rather than placing the landscaping cloth on the bumpy hydrocoils. The landscaping cloth keeps the roots out of the wire and (almost all of) the dirt out of the hydrocoils (which I change every 4-6 cycles, rather than just cleaning them over and over, but most dirt that gets past the landscaping cloth is removed just by lifting the mesh wire anyway). I can't possibly overwater, unless I just flood the stupid thing, because any excess seeps through the landscaping cloth and mesh wire, and is absorbed, like little sponges, by the hydrocoils. Over the course of the week between waterings, the air circulated gently down through the plumbing pipe dries out the hydrocoils, and also provides oxygen beneath the roots.
If I were to use buckets, I'd use something roughly the size of a 5-gallon bucket, but square. But square containers waste less space, and therefore less light.
Filling and emptying the box sucks. Hydro is cleaner and easier, if you can stand the flavor. I can't.
In soil:
1. Tiny tomato containers -- first 14 days.
2. Six-by-six pots -- next 24-40 days, roughly, depending what you're veging.
3. Flip to 12-12 for sexing while still in six-inch pots.
4. Within 10-12 days, all undesired males should have been removed. Transplant your permanent babies into the final container for flowering.
By the way, as much as it may disturb you, when you transplant, you always have to reach up the middle and rip that root ball apart. That first transplant, from the tomato containers to the six-by-six pots, is pretty much just shaking out the dirt, getting the roots nice and exposed (and then spraying them with a solution of water mixed with one-drop-a-gallon Super Thrive hormone before transplanting into the next container).
But when you transplant from six-by-six pots into your flowering container, you really have to reach up the middle and rip those roots apart, tear them so deep that you literally rip them almost in half, and the plant can sit on what (until a moment earlier) used to be the very middle of the dirt ball. Spray them with the solution, and drop them. Tearing up the bound roots really allows them to expand. They'll jump big-time that first week after transplant.
For soil, however, the vegetative and flowering soil mixes are somewhat different, and there's a formula for that, too. Once you get going, hydro may be your ticket. You'll just have to see.
The first time I provide any fertilizer to a sprout is the day I transplant it fom the tomato containers to the six-by-six pots (roughly day 14).
I don't have any hydro tips for you, though others will.
I don't exactly grow in buckets. I have a box made specially for the purpose. A bit more than a square meter, I suppose, on small wheels for portability, like those on the bottom of an office chair. The box is about 18 inches deep. A layer of plastic covers the interior. On each corner, I have a piece of plumbing pipe rigged up to run from above the top of the box, to within about an inch of the bottom. How I fastened all these items to the box was high-tech indeed: much duct tape.
I drop a layer of hydrocoil, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom of the box. Above that, a mesh wire, cut to fit exactly the size of the inside of the box, and around the plumbing pipe, which is usable forever. Above that, a layer of landscaping cloth, again cut to exactly the same size, which you change every use.
Above that, I put the dirt and 14-17 babies.
So again, in order, from the top of the box down:
Plants
Dirt
Landscaping cloth
Mesh Wire
Hydrocoils.
The design of the box serves multiple purposes. The wire keeps the landscaping cloth steady and in place, rather than placing the landscaping cloth on the bumpy hydrocoils. The landscaping cloth keeps the roots out of the wire and (almost all of) the dirt out of the hydrocoils (which I change every 4-6 cycles, rather than just cleaning them over and over, but most dirt that gets past the landscaping cloth is removed just by lifting the mesh wire anyway). I can't possibly overwater, unless I just flood the stupid thing, because any excess seeps through the landscaping cloth and mesh wire, and is absorbed, like little sponges, by the hydrocoils. Over the course of the week between waterings, the air circulated gently down through the plumbing pipe dries out the hydrocoils, and also provides oxygen beneath the roots.
If I were to use buckets, I'd use something roughly the size of a 5-gallon bucket, but square. But square containers waste less space, and therefore less light.
Filling and emptying the box sucks. Hydro is cleaner and easier, if you can stand the flavor. I can't.
In soil:
1. Tiny tomato containers -- first 14 days.
2. Six-by-six pots -- next 24-40 days, roughly, depending what you're veging.
3. Flip to 12-12 for sexing while still in six-inch pots.
4. Within 10-12 days, all undesired males should have been removed. Transplant your permanent babies into the final container for flowering.
By the way, as much as it may disturb you, when you transplant, you always have to reach up the middle and rip that root ball apart. That first transplant, from the tomato containers to the six-by-six pots, is pretty much just shaking out the dirt, getting the roots nice and exposed (and then spraying them with a solution of water mixed with one-drop-a-gallon Super Thrive hormone before transplanting into the next container).
But when you transplant from six-by-six pots into your flowering container, you really have to reach up the middle and rip those roots apart, tear them so deep that you literally rip them almost in half, and the plant can sit on what (until a moment earlier) used to be the very middle of the dirt ball. Spray them with the solution, and drop them. Tearing up the bound roots really allows them to expand. They'll jump big-time that first week after transplant.
For soil, however, the vegetative and flowering soil mixes are somewhat different, and there's a formula for that, too. Once you get going, hydro may be your ticket. You'll just have to see.
The first time I provide any fertilizer to a sprout is the day I transplant it fom the tomato containers to the six-by-six pots (roughly day 14).
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
When I first started
I used soil only and five gallon buckets, The soil is an organic mix of sea products the brand is Fox Farm, worm castings and such. Actually I can not remember magine that! But its good stuff. I grow with this all the way through flowering. Before I found where to buy I had to have it shipped to me, at a cost of 38 dollars for a 2 cu ft crazy. That is when I started to have problems useing sudstandard soil. I used all kinds and mixes with ok results at best. That is one of the reasons I started growing in hydro, then found out it was easier. So I have to be doing something wrong with soil. So no drainage uglies, the brown trails the runoff makes and how do you tell what time to water do you use a moisture meter?
Out of those that you plant in your box on average how many are females?
Have you ever tried to sprout them outside in the sun on the side of the house that gets the most sun? I have on two seperate occasions, everyone came up female. Of course I had no idea until the little white hairs appeared.
Thats something else, the white hairs I understand that the hairs denounce female, my question is how come sometimes the white hairs show up as soon as 3 weeks in veg state. Is this normal? I have yet to see a male this early.
I do the same thing and have been told not to open up the roots the only thing I haven't treid is the super thrive, but I boiught some the last time I was in town.
Fertalizer? What do you use and does it really work? I have tried soooooo many different ferts. but can not really see a difference, then again I haven't really grown a plant from good seed but once, taht was a long time ago 3 years. If I remember they were spectacular and given to me but the were no longer able to send to the USA. So that was a giant tease.
Out of those that you plant in your box on average how many are females?
Have you ever tried to sprout them outside in the sun on the side of the house that gets the most sun? I have on two seperate occasions, everyone came up female. Of course I had no idea until the little white hairs appeared.
Thats something else, the white hairs I understand that the hairs denounce female, my question is how come sometimes the white hairs show up as soon as 3 weeks in veg state. Is this normal? I have yet to see a male this early.
I do the same thing and have been told not to open up the roots the only thing I haven't treid is the super thrive, but I boiught some the last time I was in town.
Fertalizer? What do you use and does it really work? I have tried soooooo many different ferts. but can not really see a difference, then again I haven't really grown a plant from good seed but once, taht was a long time ago 3 years. If I remember they were spectacular and given to me but the were no longer able to send to the USA. So that was a giant tease.
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
The ones I put in the box are all female. But that's because I flip them in the six-by-six pots, and identify them, before that final transplant.
About 50 percent of anything is going to come up female. I've heard of several methods that supposedly induce a greater percentage of females, to which my response is just vegetate a few extra plants and save the energy. I've thrown females away many times when I have too high a percentage (actually, I run them through the Bubbleator, but the point is, I create the possibility of discarding extra females by outflanking males through sheer numbers).
Yes, your soil enrichment plan could use some work.
Soil mixes actually change with each transplant. The seedling stage (first two weeks) is in a mix much like the brand you described, and which sounds like a sufficient sprouting medium. The rest of the vegetative cycle (my transplant into six-by-six pots) is an entirely different mix. And the flowering cycle (my transplant into the box) is yet another mix, subtly different from the vegetative mix.
I'll post the mixes later.
About 50 percent of anything is going to come up female. I've heard of several methods that supposedly induce a greater percentage of females, to which my response is just vegetate a few extra plants and save the energy. I've thrown females away many times when I have too high a percentage (actually, I run them through the Bubbleator, but the point is, I create the possibility of discarding extra females by outflanking males through sheer numbers).
Yes, your soil enrichment plan could use some work.
Soil mixes actually change with each transplant. The seedling stage (first two weeks) is in a mix much like the brand you described, and which sounds like a sufficient sprouting medium. The rest of the vegetative cycle (my transplant into six-by-six pots) is an entirely different mix. And the flowering cycle (my transplant into the box) is yet another mix, subtly different from the vegetative mix.
I'll post the mixes later.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
terrible times
This time of season is so hard on me, I don't know for sure but the weather sure seems to fuck with me!!
The constant pain is unbearable, ten times as bad when I have no cannabis!!
I'm very intertested in the soil and why you change it each time you start another stage. I was under the impression that the soil I am using would be good throught the entire grow cycle. This is what I've read alot of different times from different books and mags. I suppose this is wrong also! I am the kind of person that needs a explanation of how the different soils benifit the plants!
I hope this is not asking to much!! Thanks and I'm in no hurry!
The constant pain is unbearable, ten times as bad when I have no cannabis!!
I'm very intertested in the soil and why you change it each time you start another stage. I was under the impression that the soil I am using would be good throught the entire grow cycle. This is what I've read alot of different times from different books and mags. I suppose this is wrong also! I am the kind of person that needs a explanation of how the different soils benifit the plants!
I hope this is not asking to much!! Thanks and I'm in no hurry!
being thankful will change everything
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
being patient
That was the key, thanks to you all! I find being patient when I'm in pain is like asking me to move a mountain! The cannabis is so incredible for me, not only with pain but the state of mind I'm in at the time! So many pills I don't have to take just because of cannabis!! I am having trouble smoking and need a volcano and accessories including replacement bags! Information or experiences with vender's would be great
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
Sorry, Camaro, real life beckoned.
Soil mixes vary only slightly. The guanos are different. Not all bat guanos are the same.
Note that the first six items are the same from one mix to the next.
You could get away with using same soil mix throughout. But it requires minimal additional effort to do separate mixes. You need additional soil every time you transplant into bigger containers anyway, and that soil has to be mixed at some point. Straight-out-of-the-bag soil is insufficient to sustain cannabis alone. You may as well mix it with the nutrients the plants actually need at each stage.
VEGETATIVE
1 bag Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix (64 dry quarts; 70.4 L)
1 bag Premier Pro-Mix BX Professional General Purpose Growing Medium (2.8 cubic ft., loose fill)
10 pounds earthworm castings
4 cups additional perlite
2 cups kelp meal
1 cup wood ash
1 cup high-nitrogen seabird guano (app. 10-10-2)
1 cup vegetative bat guano (app. 10-2-0)
FLOWERING
1 bag Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix (64 dry quarts; 70.4 L)
1 bag Premier Pro-Mix BX Professional General Purpose Growing Medium (2.8 cubic ft., loose fill)
10 pounds earthworm castings
4 cups additional perlite
2 cups kelp meal
1 cup wood ash
2 cups flowering bat guano (app. 0-13-0)
Quick notes:
--All guanos I use come from Sealeaves. Their website is www.sealeaves.com but I've never hit it. I buy their products at a local grow store.
--All guanos can change NPK makeup from one batch to the next. The flowering guano that is 0-13-0 now may be 0.5-12.5-1 next time. The labeling changes accordingly, so don't let that throw you.
--The local grow store also will have all products except perhaps the basic Miracle-Gro soil (available at Home Depot, or any general-purpose nursery-type store for mainstream growing, etc.) and wood ash (which is just the gray ash from a wood fireplace, with the wood chips and particles removed with a screen or strainer -- if you don't have a wood-burning fireplace, you hopefully know someone who does).
--I mix on a tarp, in the garage. Break up clumps in both the soil and worm castings (not the most pleasant thing, but if you've ever fished, it probably won't be your first time getting crapped on by a worm). Add other ingredients. Toss back and forth. Don't even think about doing it in your house, because some guanos are powder-fine, and get airborne. For the same reason, don't do it anywhere too windy.
--Designate a couple sufficient storage containers for excess soil. Mine are named Veg and Flo.
Soil mixes vary only slightly. The guanos are different. Not all bat guanos are the same.
Note that the first six items are the same from one mix to the next.
You could get away with using same soil mix throughout. But it requires minimal additional effort to do separate mixes. You need additional soil every time you transplant into bigger containers anyway, and that soil has to be mixed at some point. Straight-out-of-the-bag soil is insufficient to sustain cannabis alone. You may as well mix it with the nutrients the plants actually need at each stage.
VEGETATIVE
1 bag Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix (64 dry quarts; 70.4 L)
1 bag Premier Pro-Mix BX Professional General Purpose Growing Medium (2.8 cubic ft., loose fill)
10 pounds earthworm castings
4 cups additional perlite
2 cups kelp meal
1 cup wood ash
1 cup high-nitrogen seabird guano (app. 10-10-2)
1 cup vegetative bat guano (app. 10-2-0)
FLOWERING
1 bag Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix (64 dry quarts; 70.4 L)
1 bag Premier Pro-Mix BX Professional General Purpose Growing Medium (2.8 cubic ft., loose fill)
10 pounds earthworm castings
4 cups additional perlite
2 cups kelp meal
1 cup wood ash
2 cups flowering bat guano (app. 0-13-0)
Quick notes:
--All guanos I use come from Sealeaves. Their website is www.sealeaves.com but I've never hit it. I buy their products at a local grow store.
--All guanos can change NPK makeup from one batch to the next. The flowering guano that is 0-13-0 now may be 0.5-12.5-1 next time. The labeling changes accordingly, so don't let that throw you.
--The local grow store also will have all products except perhaps the basic Miracle-Gro soil (available at Home Depot, or any general-purpose nursery-type store for mainstream growing, etc.) and wood ash (which is just the gray ash from a wood fireplace, with the wood chips and particles removed with a screen or strainer -- if you don't have a wood-burning fireplace, you hopefully know someone who does).
--I mix on a tarp, in the garage. Break up clumps in both the soil and worm castings (not the most pleasant thing, but if you've ever fished, it probably won't be your first time getting crapped on by a worm). Add other ingredients. Toss back and forth. Don't even think about doing it in your house, because some guanos are powder-fine, and get airborne. For the same reason, don't do it anywhere too windy.
--Designate a couple sufficient storage containers for excess soil. Mine are named Veg and Flo.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
not to worrie
I hope I wasn't rushing you, I get that way sometimes! If so I am sorry. Know thanks for the info, I just got back from the hydro store and found out about the different soils you are speaking of or something very close. Thanks.
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
No problem, wasn't rushed. Just wasn't around.
The last thing you asked about was fertilization. I think it's the only step I haven't posted, so if you can organize it all (better than I did), then you have the whole process. If you choose to grow in soil and follow this regimen, you'll have good results. Hydro advocates can present their own cases, which are substantial (bigger and faster yields; cleaner). But flavor suffers with hydro.
First fertilization occurs upon transplant of the 2-week-old seedlings into their 6-by-6 (or 5-by-5) pots. Water those pots every 5-7 days. The plants will let you know. You'll need to water a little more frequently late in the vegetative process, as the plants get bigger and suck up more. About 2 cups of fluid will service each pot.
I fertilize every other watering, so it works out to be every 10-14 days. Don't overfertilize. It's the most common mistake.
Same thing in flowering, water every 5-7 days, and fertilize every other watering. Stop fertilizing completely for the final 2-3 weeks before harvest. Use just the basic watering mix (with Super Thrive hormone), and the plants will flush out salts and other nutrient buildup nicely.
You'll need a dropper for the Super Thrive, and a plastic beaker with CC measurements.
BASIC WATERING (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
VEGETATIVE FERTILIZATION (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
1/4 tsp. Miracle-Gro All-Purpose Plant Food (24-8-16)
5-7 CCs Liquid Karma
5-7 CCs Liquid Seaweed
FLOWERING FERTILIZATION (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
1/4 tsp. Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster Plant Food (10-52-10)
5-7 CCs Liquid Karma
5-7 CCs Liquid Seaweed
Everything on this list, you should be able to find at that store you visited.
Good luck.
The last thing you asked about was fertilization. I think it's the only step I haven't posted, so if you can organize it all (better than I did), then you have the whole process. If you choose to grow in soil and follow this regimen, you'll have good results. Hydro advocates can present their own cases, which are substantial (bigger and faster yields; cleaner). But flavor suffers with hydro.
First fertilization occurs upon transplant of the 2-week-old seedlings into their 6-by-6 (or 5-by-5) pots. Water those pots every 5-7 days. The plants will let you know. You'll need to water a little more frequently late in the vegetative process, as the plants get bigger and suck up more. About 2 cups of fluid will service each pot.
I fertilize every other watering, so it works out to be every 10-14 days. Don't overfertilize. It's the most common mistake.
Same thing in flowering, water every 5-7 days, and fertilize every other watering. Stop fertilizing completely for the final 2-3 weeks before harvest. Use just the basic watering mix (with Super Thrive hormone), and the plants will flush out salts and other nutrient buildup nicely.
You'll need a dropper for the Super Thrive, and a plastic beaker with CC measurements.
BASIC WATERING (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
VEGETATIVE FERTILIZATION (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
1/4 tsp. Miracle-Gro All-Purpose Plant Food (24-8-16)
5-7 CCs Liquid Karma
5-7 CCs Liquid Seaweed
FLOWERING FERTILIZATION (per gallon)
1 drop Super Thrive
1/4 tsp. Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster Plant Food (10-52-10)
5-7 CCs Liquid Karma
5-7 CCs Liquid Seaweed
Everything on this list, you should be able to find at that store you visited.
Good luck.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
its on!
Thanks once again, every two weeks that seems to be a lot. When you fertalize are you using full strength? I have started back to soil, actually I have both going right now! We will see what developes.
Having a rough time putting words down on the keys, I'll type later and thanks a million. Have a good one and be well!!!!
Having a rough time putting words down on the keys, I'll type later and thanks a million. Have a good one and be well!!!!
being thankful will change everything
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courtjester
- Posts: 683
- Joined: Sun 21st May 2006 02:39 am
- Location: Smokelahoma
It might sound like a lot, but bear in mind, there's no fertilization for the two-week seedling stage, or for the final two or three weeks of flowering. The whole process shouldn't take much more than 3 1/2 months, seed to sickle, and that's one month that you don't fertilize at all.
Typically, I expect to fertilize about two to three times vegetatively (roughly days 14, 26, and maybe 38, if it's a long-vegging indica), and about four to five times in flower (roughly flowering days 1, 14, 27, 40, and maybe 53 for a short-flowering sativa...potentially even 66 for a longer-flowering sativa).
I have all the confidence in the world that you'll do well. We're all rooting for you, so to speak.
Typically, I expect to fertilize about two to three times vegetatively (roughly days 14, 26, and maybe 38, if it's a long-vegging indica), and about four to five times in flower (roughly flowering days 1, 14, 27, 40, and maybe 53 for a short-flowering sativa...potentially even 66 for a longer-flowering sativa).
I have all the confidence in the world that you'll do well. We're all rooting for you, so to speak.
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68camaro
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat 15th Mar 2008 05:08 pm
- Location: wide wide world
thanks, again
So follow the directions for the fertalizer I'm using? Just use it every other watering. This is more than I expected, to be able to supply myself with meds is what I wanted but here is so much more to the cannabis plant.
To think I thought the plant was just a weed, man was I wrong. I was able to grow but the quality suffered so! These new beans look awsome, I should be able to transplant in the next few days, The first trans. Hey man take care and I will keep in touch!
To think I thought the plant was just a weed, man was I wrong. I was able to grow but the quality suffered so! These new beans look awsome, I should be able to transplant in the next few days, The first trans. Hey man take care and I will keep in touch!
being thankful will change everything