A Nostalgic Look Back

[DRA]

New, updated essay:

https://medium.com/@dra999.2020/three-s ... 596d425c4b

[Jolly]

My Triumphant Return: Budget Travel as Earned Reward

The Countdown

"Twenty-five days until My Triumphant Return! Be still my beating heart!"

I posted that to the Amsterdam Coffeeshop Directory forum on March 5, 2012. At work, even while taking calls at the Cincinnati call center, I kept a little window open in my mind where I could see myself walking Warmoesstraat, sitting in the Greenhouse Effect bar, meeting the people I'd only known as usernames.

The visualization was deliberate. Not just remembering Amsterdam, but living there mentally while physically in Ohio. I'd search for low-priced airfares in my head, imagine the smells (coffee competing with cannabis, rain on cobblestones), feel the train ride from Schiphol to Centraal Station. I made it as rich as possible, as detailed as I could. Even when slaving away at the salt mine.

Sounds crazy, but it works.

This essay captures that specific moment in time: April 2012. Many of the places I'll mention have since changed, moved, or disappeared completely. But in 2012, they were there, and they mattered.

Ten days before departure: "I arrive in Amsterdam in 10 days!"

Seven days: "I will arrive in Amsterdam in one week from today!"

The countdown posts weren't just excitement. It was anticipation like a kid waiting for Christmas. I wanted to create excitement for the ACD members who were keeping up with my progress. Some of these people were commenting on my posts, asking questions about my plans and schedule. A few were even suggesting opportunities when we could meet for a toke or a bite to eat. After two years away, I was going back to Amsterdam and I felt like I had earned it. This time, I wouldn't just be visiting places. I'd be meeting the people who had kept Amsterdam alive for me during the gap years.

The Gap Years

I'd been visiting Amsterdam annually since 1998. Spring trips, New Year's Eve trips, enough visits that I knew my way around without being able to blend in completely. Somewhere between tourist and regular, I would walk to all the familiar places I remembered, noting how they had changed during my absence. That pattern would repeat throughout the trip. Amsterdam kept changing between visits. Not always for the better.

Late in 2009, the hypermarket where I worked announced it would permanently close in May 2010. I agreed to stay until the very last day to help with shutdown and cleanup. Since I knew in advance I was going to be unemployed, I elected to save the money I would have spent on a trip due to financial uncertainty. Then my grandmother had a stroke and was put in the Manor House nursing home in Dover. She died in 2010. Double punch to the gut. Injury added to insult. I didn't go to Amsterdam that year. Grief and uncertainty kept me home.

I could technically afford the trip in 2011. I'd saved the money. But I couldn't justify it to myself or my family. Going to Europe while collecting unemployment felt wrong, even if the finances worked. So I stayed home again.

Those two years weren't wasted. I discovered the Amsterdam Coffeeshop Directory forum. Started researching shops I'd missed during earlier trips. Found out Stan (username "gapie") led free coffeeshop tours. Learned which places had been redesigned, which new spots were worth visiting. The forced time away made me a better informed traveler.

My IRC friends and ACD readers were supportive. They encouraged me to return when I could. They kept Amsterdam alive for me through forum posts and chat conversations. The online community became a lifeline during the dark times.

Late in 2011, I landed a call center job. The work sucked, but at least it was a paycheck. During the interview, I explained I'd already planned a spring trip that would require two weeks off. They agreed, without pay of course. I still missed my grandmother, but the sting wasn't as sharp now. Financial recovery. Emotional recovery. I could take the trip without guilt or sadness.

This wasn't just going back to Amsterdam. This was proof I'd survived grief and unemployment. Proof I deserved good things again. The trip was something I'd earned, a reward for persevering.

March 30: Arrival

The plane landed at Schiphol at 8:40 AM. I collected my luggage and found jwall at the predetermined rendezvous location: a large red and white checkered meeting point at Schiphol Airport. After initial greetings, we made our way to the train platforms located under the airport and took the train into Centraal Station together. After getting our luggage situated in lockers, we stopped at Utopia where Ingi, the budtender, was helpful and happy to show me the various products available. My first purchase, my first toke of the day: Citronella, a pure sativa.

Later I made my way to Greenhouse Effect coffeeshop where Stan, jollylittlehun, and smokeze had gathered for a Toke and Talk session. Greenhouse Effect runs long and narrow, the kind of Amsterdam coffeeshop where dim lighting makes everyone look slightly conspiratorial until you reach the back counter where fluorescent brightness reveals you're just ordering coffee and a croissant. The budtender's booth sits off to the right, separate from the service counter, glass-fronted and well-lit so you can watch your purchase being weighed with pharmaceutical precision. The most coveted table was the one in the big front window, perfect for watching pedestrian traffic flow past while Badly Drawn Boy played from unseen speakers and the smell of coffee competed with various strains being enjoyed throughout the room. The place was crowded and busy.

Stan suggested we walk up to Voyager's, where we enjoyed the atmosphere for a while. Seemingly always in tour guide mode, Stan made the motion that we finish off our day at Cafe Batavia 1920, a large bar and restaurant on Prins Hendrikkade 85, just around the corner from Voyager's and near Centraal Station. This was my first visit. I hadn't known that Batavia had a casual lounge area where cannabis smokers were encouraged to congregate. On this day, Stan, jollylittlehun, and I were lucky enough to get seated at the best table in the lounge, next to the window with a canal view of the Oudezijds Kolksluis. After a long first day back, I headed to Centraal Station to retrieve my luggage, then caught the train out to Almere Haven where I was staying with Els.

Almere Haven is a suburb about 30 minutes from Amsterdam, first by train to Almere-stad, then by bus to the stop at De Meenten. Almere has dedicated bus roadways that keep the buses on schedule. Els provided budget accommodation and free parking, crucial for later when my Swiss friend Heinz would drive us back from Switzerland in his Saab. Amsterdam parking was expensive. This was smart strategy.

I knew I was back after dropping my bags in a left luggage locker at Centraal Station. I was a free man in Amsterdam walking around unencumbered, knowing I could walk into any coffeeshop, make a purchase, sit down and enjoy it with other happy patrons.

March 31: Stan's Crawl

This trip was different because I was meeting people I'd only known online. Stan, username "gapie," actually lived in Amsterdam and made a hobby of giving visitors coffeeshop tours. No nervousness about meeting strangers from the internet. Just friendly faces putting usernames to real conversations.

We got things started at Voyager's around noon. Voyager's had improved their reputation as a source for better quality herb, so there was almost always a packed house and a line at the budtender's booth. Above the shop, there's a budget hotel popular with young travelers. While we were there, I bought Super Lemon Haze priced at ten euros a gram and enjoyed it all day. Our group was diverse, younger people and older people, mostly American and British. Everyone spoke English.

Stan led us on the crawl. From Voyagers we made our way to Siberie, located at Brouwersgracht 11, along the quaint and scenic Brouwersgracht canal. I had walked past this shop many times so I was glad to finally go inside and enjoy the pleasant, well-lit, cafe-inspired space. Stan was very talkative as he took the various purchases made by some of our group members and proceeded to deftly roll joints.

After a while, we left to continue our walk along the Brouwersgracht canal until we reached our next destination, Coffeeshop 137, also known as Sturgis. Our small troupe of crawlers took over a large table next to the door at the front of the shop. Clean and pleasant, this sleek and modern place was well-lit thanks to the large windows.

As a group, we left Coffeeshop 137 and headed over to a shop I had put on my list to visit this time around: Coffeeshop Spirit. The unique thing about Spirit is that it's themed as an arcade game room featuring several different pinball machines, classic video game emulators, and a pool table. A good menu and a friendly staff rounded out the experience.

During our day of coffeeshop crawling we made our way deeper into the Jordaan district, stopping at 1 e Hulp (Dutch for 1st Help, also known as First Aid) located at Marnixstraat 194 along the Lijnbaansgracht canal. The small shop had a good reputation for quality herb and featured several seating areas on different levels connected by steep steps. After sampling the product, those steps required careful navigation. Ornately decorated and located far enough out of the Centrum that mostly well-informed connoisseurs would make the trip.

From there we hit Paradox, then Funky Monkey, the pace picking up as the day wore on. Our last stop was Grey Area, located at Oude Leliestraat 2, bringing us back to the Centrum. This well-established fan favorite often had a line extending out the door.

It was getting late in the day when jollylittlehun and I broke away from the group for food. His choice was La Grotte, a cannabis-friendly breakfast bar on Haarlemmerstraat. He ordered English Breakfast, fitting for a British native and perfectly on-brand for the place. I had patat frites and a Coke. We sat at a window seat watching the constant parade of people on the sidewalk.

Afterward we visited El Guapo. I'd been there in 2009, when it had a retro, slightly psychedelic vibe. Now it had been completely redesigned. Sleeker, more modern, more space for patrons. But it felt sterile. The modernization hadn't improved it. Something was lost in the update. El Guapo became the clearest example of that pattern: Amsterdam evolving, but not always for the better. Jollylittlehun ordered a sample from the menu, but after a day of sampling, judging strain quality had become difficult beyond taste and smell. We were pretty wasted by anyone's estimation.

Navigating Amsterdam while sampling strains all day requires strategy. Even though I know my way around fairly well, the maze of small side streets in the Centrum can disorient you. I made mental notes of landmarks: buildings, shops, graffiti. The Multatuli statue became one anchor point. If I could find that, I could find my way from there.

April 1-3: Side Trips

I had already planned to meet Alex (IRC username "alien") in Nijmegen. The train from Amsterdam cut through rural Dutch countryside. Farms and fields with grazing cattle, a few isolated houses passing by my window. Historic Nijmegen is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, located near the German border. Much of the old city was destroyed during the second world war, but enough remained to make it worth exploring.

Beautiful day for a walking tour. Alex showed me around, giving me details about the history of the area as we walked. We were warmly welcomed at Coffeeshop Jamaica, where Alex was a regular customer. Afterward we made our way to Kronenburgpark to see the Kruittoren (Powder Tower) and portions of the old city wall still standing.

Alex demonstrated a Dutch custom: eating herring with onions. He picked up the fish by the tail, lowered it into his mouth, ate half in one bite, finished the remainder, left only the tailfin and bones. He was self-aware about it: "This is a Dutch custom which we Dutch love. The rest of the world thinks it's revolting. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, I just like it."

I didn't try it. Just documented it on video for my IRC friends back home.

I'd planned an overnight stay at a modern hotel in Nijmegen, a small splurge. After supper, I walked with Alex to the train station for his trip home, then made my way to the hotel to crash for the night.

The next day brought an unplanned stop in Arnhem. My credit card didn't have a chip, and European rails had switched to chip-only acceptance. I couldn't buy my train ticket to Switzerland. I had to go back to Almere Haven, where Els gave me a cash advance. Lifesaver. I repaid her later from a hotel ATM, but in that moment, she saved my trip.

I walked around the cobblestone streets of Arnhem, window shopping and killing time until the internet cafe opened. Once I got online, I was able to use the ACD to research local coffeeshops. That's how I found Coffeeshop Upstairs. Literally upstairs. Street door leading directly to stairs with a landing midway to the top. The shop was 100% Dutch locals. I didn't look at the menu since I was fully stocked with earlier purchases, but I ordered tea and asked if I could smoke my own product in the smoking room. They said yes. I smoked Super Silver Haze, bussed my own table to make a good impression, and enjoyed the friendly atmosphere.

This was 2012. No smartphone. My basic cellphone had no European service. I was hunting for internet cafes to access forums, dealing with chip card crises, navigating with tourist maps and ACD research. A different kind of travel than today.

April 4-7: Switzerland

I took the Inter City Express from Amsterdam to Basel SBB. The ICE is a high-speed rail service connecting major European destinations. Once I arrived in Basel, I transferred to a local train for Gelterkinden, a small Swiss town where my friend Heinz lived. I'd met him on IRC back in the late 90s (username "bakshish"), first met him in person during my New Year's Eve 1999 trip. By 2012, we'd been friends for thirteen years.

Heinz is a long-haired Swiss hippie born in 1957. He lost the use of his left arm below the elbow in a motorcycle accident (bad weather, heavy winds, lost control of the bike). His arm is scarred and shriveled. He had to learn to use his unnatural right hand. Because of his injury, Heinz equipped his Saab with special steering controls on the steering wheel, including a suicide knob for one-handed steering. He liked to drive fast and he would prove that later on the drive to Almere. He got speeding tickets even in Germany.

The long wild hair and scruffy beard made him look a little scary to some people. That's intentional. Looking slouchy and unkempt keeps potential robbers away. He can't defend himself with one arm, so he uses appearance strategically.

Heinz ran a small private hash operation from his apartment. Clients called ahead to make sure product was available and that Heinz was open for business. New clients were added by personal referral from existing clients. They came to his living room, what I called the hash den, to buy their hash or herb. Most people would stay to roll a joint and smoke one with Heinz and whoever else was there before leaving. These weren't just customers. They were friends. Poor ventilation meant the room would fog with smoke. It was still cold in April in Gelterkinden, so when Heinz opened the window, the warm air would escape along with the billowing smoke. It didn't take long to clear the air and close the window again.

The pure hash was shiny and dense. Heinz would use a knife to cut chunks to weigh. He once told me about asking his dealer friend for "sausage" (mixed hash). His friend said take what the sausage is made of instead: pure hash before it's cut with lower quality product.

The hash den did most of its business in the evening. This was a secret operation, so clients stopped by after their day jobs. Thursday and Friday nights were especially busy as people prepared for the weekend. These weren't just customers coming and going. They were friends gathering in Heinz's living room, smoking together, talking, listening to music.

We smoked Swiss-grown Dragonseed and White Heaven. Both strains were excellent, same quality level as Amsterdam product but better value because they weren't sold at Amsterdam prices.

I slept on Heinz's couch in the living room hash den. The walls were discolored from years of smoke. Things were a little dusty and the room smelled of hash, herb, and tobacco. Heinz had his large album and CD collection and knick-knacks on display on either side of his entertainment center, which featured a large TV and stereo with very good speakers. Heinz liked his music loud.

While I was in Switzerland, Heinz took me to visit his mom. She was very kind and served us raclette, which was new to me. She had a special raclette appliance that sat in the middle of the table, allowing everyone access to melt the tasty cheese.

On April 7, Heinz drove us back to the Netherlands. It was roughly five hours to cross Germany on the Autobahn. Heinz drove 100 mph when he could. The German countryside sped by. He played music for us during the drive, mostly classic rock. Occasionally we would spot electric-generating windmills lined across hilly ridges. We made one stop for gas, refreshments, and bathroom. Then to Almere Haven where we spent the night with Els (free parking). The next day we took the bus and train into Amsterdam and checked into the Greenhouse Effect Hotel.

April 9-12: Final Days

The Greenhouse Effect Hotel became home base. Heinz and I checked into the Red Man Room, one of three rooms located on the top floor. The Red Man Room was named for the large abstract painted mural of a smoking man covering one wall. The stairs were steep, but the climb was worth it. We had stayed in this room before and it hadn't changed much since my last visit, just minor decorating updates. Even though we didn't spend a lot of time in the room, when we were there and wanted to smoke we had to open the large window that looked out the back of the hotel. The view was mostly rooftops and windows of buildings surrounding the hotel. The room's location at the back of the building meant isolation from the busy foot traffic and late-night noise on the pedestrian mall portion of Warmoesstraat out front. A quiet retreat when we needed it.

The free breakfast buffet ran from 9 AM to noon, and I developed a routine. I'd be up early, walking the streets near the hotel with my camera, shooting video and photos. Around 9, I'd go back for first breakfast. Then I'd spend an hour or more walking through the Centrum and Red Light District shooting more video and photos. Around 11:30, I'd return to the hotel to check on Heinz. We'd both go back down for a second breakfast, more like brunch for me by that point. Budget travel means maximizing what you pay for.

Those morning walks revealed things many tourists never see. Cleaning crews collecting trash and cleaning up after the previous night's revelers. Water spraying down sidewalks and corners where drunk men might have urinated. Morning deliveries to bars and restaurants along the pedestrian section of Warmoesstraat. Electrically operated bollards would lower flush into the street to allow delivery trucks, then raise again to block traffic and create an open-air pedestrian mall for the day.

Thursday April 12 was my last full day. I attended a T&T session at Coffeeshop Utopia in the afternoon. Same shop where I'd bought Citronella on arrival day March 30. Full circle.

Utopia billed itself as a coffeeshop and gallery, with local art on display and a budget hotel above the shop. Located on busy Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, the bright and cheerful lounge was filled with our T&T group passing around a Stan-rolled joint.

Ingi, the budtender, gave me unprecedented access to document the shop. I was allowed to shoot video, but she went further. She brought out different herb choices, showing off the nicest buds for the camera: Orange Bud, Bubba Kush, and Amnesia Haze. I photographed the menu. She was happy to show me everything. I watched my order weighed on digital scales, the whole transaction documented.

Earlier that day there had been a T&T at Betty Boop that went poorly. The budtender refused to sell drinks unless people bought weed first. This had never been a requirement in the past. When no one went downstairs to purchase, he became aggravated, had a temper tantrum, and basically threw us out of the shop. A member of our group, known as Rvan Steensel on ACD, used the term "nazi" to describe his behavior. It was a shame. Betty Boop had always been one of my favorite spots. This was the last time I visited this shop.

The 420 Cafe session went better. More people attended, and the atmosphere was lively with chatter and communal toking while Frank Zappa played in the background. I met Hestia and Winnie, both well-known contributors to the ACD and regular Amsterdam visitors.

After that event broke up, Heinz and I got an early supper at Restaurant New Season on Warmoesstraat, just a short walk from our hotel. The restaurant itself was clean and brightly lit with minimal interior decoration. We were seated immediately and the service was prompt and attentive. I ordered Szechuan Chicken and was very happy with it. Most reasonably priced restaurant of the entire trip. Two people eating well for under forty euros at a sit-down restaurant with waiters and silverware. Budget travel means finding these advantages wherever you can.

Heinz had a full day of walking around the Centrum and coffeeshop visits. Even though we were both invited to the late gathering at 't Nes, he opted to sit in the bar at the Greenhouse Effect instead. I walked south of Dam Square to the narrow street called Nes to find the bar. 't Nes is a smoker-friendly bar that used to be a coffeeshop. The place was packed with an eclectic mix of tourists and local regulars, one of the busiest bars in town. ACD members were already there, enjoying a beer and a toke. I met more people from the forum, smoked, talked, watched the crowds.

Back at the Greenhouse Effect Bar, I spent the rest of the evening smoking the remainder of my stash before that sad walk up the steep stairs to pack my things.

April 13: The Unfortunate Return

Departure day is always tinged with sadness. It seems especially tough because the flight back to the States always leaves early. Combined with the required early check-in for security, I had to get up, get dressed, and leave for the airport before Heinz was even awake. I quietly gathered my things and slipped out, down the steep steps.

I went to Centraal Station, bought a ticket to Schiphol from a machine, took the train alone with my bags. After checking in, I made my way outside to a smoking area. I had bought a pre-rolled joint the night before just for this purpose. I sat on the parapet next to the rail above the parking garage, lit the joint, and started to enjoy it. But as a pre-rolled joint of mystery herb, it was a bit harsh and I sat there coughing like a tuberculosis patient.

That was my goodbye. Not to people, but to the experience itself.

On the plane home I felt sadness. Already missing Amsterdam. But in my mind I was already planning my return. Visualizing the next trip. Searching for low-priced airfares, imagining the smells, keeping that little window open even while working the call center.

The trip had proven something important. After the dark times (grandmother's death in 2010, unemployment in 2011), I could come back. The grief and economic hardship hadn't destroyed me. I'd earned this trip. It was a reward for persevering.

And in 2013, I'd do it again. Even more detailed planning. Even better execution. The ritual was established.

Amsterdam wasn't just a place I visited. It meant I was free again, free from grief and free to be myself.

DRA! How are you doing?

[FitZerOy]

Loved this one. Details so well the anticipation, consumption and mourning cycle of every Dam trip.

[DRA]

Loved this one. Details so well the anticipation, consumption and mourning cycle of every Dam trip.

Thank you for reading this. I hoped it wasn't too long for a stoner to enjoy. Was there too much detail?

[DRA]

[/quote]

DRA! How are you doing?
[/quote]

Hey man! I'm doing well. I got nostalgic and thought I'd go through my old posts and I got inspired to write this essay. Thanks for reading it.

[Jolly]

DRA! How are you doing?
[/quote]

Hey man! I'm doing well. I got nostalgic and thought I'd go through my old posts and I got inspired to write this essay. Thanks for reading it.
[/quote]

Great read and it brings back great memories. Was a pleasure to meet you.

It's jollylittlehun btw. Had a name change.

Do you think you could get over for 420 this year? It's going to be a good one.

[DRA]

DRA! How are you doing?

Hey man! I'm doing well. I got nostalgic and thought I'd go through my old posts and I got inspired to write this essay. Thanks for reading it.
[/quote]

Great read and it brings back great memories. Was a pleasure to meet you.

It's jollylittlehun btw. Had a name change.

Do you think you could get over for 420 this year? It's going to be a good one.
[/quote]

Yes, I figured you had switched to a new streamlined nickname. It was great to meet you also, we all had a good time on that coffeeshop crawl.

I think you had mentioned recently that you had gotten married, is that correct? I hope all is well on that front.

I would love to hit up Amsterdam for 420 this year but it doesn't look like I'll really have an opportunity. I am looking at another visit in the future, just not quite sure when I will be able to do that. Stay tuned! hahah

[FitZerOy]

Loved this one. Details so well the anticipation, consumption and mourning cycle of every Dam trip.

Thank you for reading this. I hoped it wasn't too long for a stoner to enjoy. Was there too much detail?

All the better for it

[Jolly]

DRA! How are you doing?

Hey man! I'm doing well. I got nostalgic and thought I'd go through my old posts and I got inspired to write this essay. Thanks for reading it.

Great read and it brings back great memories. Was a pleasure to meet you.

It's jollylittlehun btw. Had a name change.

Do you think you could get over for 420 this year? It's going to be a good one.
[/quote]

Yes, I figured you had switched to a new streamlined nickname. It was great to meet you also, we all had a good time on that coffeeshop crawl.

I think you had mentioned recently that you had gotten married, is that correct? I hope all is well on that front.

I would love to hit up Amsterdam for 420 this year but it doesn't look like I'll really have an opportunity. I am looking at another visit in the future, just not quite sure when I will be able to do that. Stay tuned! hahah
[/quote]

Thats unfortunate. Let me know if/when you're planning to book up and I can hopefully pop over to catch up. Nearly 15 years since we met and last saw each other.

I would love to see more of your pics and videos from your times over.

Great to have you back on the forum

[Smokeybee21]

Well that was absolutely outstanding. My first trip was in 2013, so this made me very nostalgic for the Voyagers/Utopia/full-swing-Warmoesstraat era. Awesome write up.

[DRA]

Well that was absolutely outstanding. My first trip was in 2013, so this made me very nostalgic for the Voyagers/Utopia/full-swing-Warmoesstraat era. Awesome write up.

Thank you so much for your kind words.

I was also in Amsterdam in the spring of 2013 and I am working on a comprehensive summary of that trip as well and I think you might enjoy it also.

DRA

[KeyMonCha]

Good to have you back, man! Always loved your videos... You have a good eye for cinematography... Hopefully see some more in the future?!

[Smokeybee21]

Well that was absolutely outstanding. My first trip was in 2013, so this made me very nostalgic for the Voyagers/Utopia/full-swing-Warmoesstraat era. Awesome write up.

Thank you so much for your kind words.

I was also in Amsterdam in the spring of 2013 and I am working on a comprehensive summary of that trip as well and I think you might enjoy it also.

DRA

Very much looking forward to that. The trip I'm referring to took place over 4/20 2013. If I remember correctly, you made a YouTube video over that weekend, we were both in Voyagers at some point. There's a Cannabis Cup Roor bong and a Black Leaf with a perc in the video that I distinctly remember smoking Blue Cheese from while two of my friends visited some ladies in the RLD

[Jolly]

Happy Birthday mate

[avfc-herbalist]

Brilliant read! Thanks for taking the time. I have watched a lot of your videos over the years